Places – BRIC-A-BRAC

The Pinery: A stage stop in the old West

Before the modern roads and cars criss-crossed the country, before the railroad connected the east and west, even before the famed Pony Express dashed across the deserts, there was the Butterfield Overland Stage route, a series of stations linking the two halves of the nation. The Pinery is one such station in what is now Northern Texas.It is located at the top of Guadalupe Pass, in what is now Guadalupe Mountain National Park, with a view of Guadalupe Peak, the highest point in Texas.

The crumbling stone building is not much to look at now, but for a brief time, this place was an important stop on the Butterfield Overland Stage route. John Butterfield set up the route to skirt south of the Rocky Mountains, so that mail could be delivered year-round. The Route, from St. Louis to San Francisco, opened in 1858 and ran until the start of the Civil War. It was some 2,800 miles long, with about 200 stations along the way. This station here at the Pinery was closed in 1859, only a year after opening because of the constant danger of raids from the Mescalero Apaches living in the area.

The site had been used previously as a military camp. When the place was repurposed as a stage stop, a corral and station house were built. The corral, at 2,211 square feet, was nearly as big as the station house, which was 2,337 square feet. The station had three rooms, a fire place, and stone walls that were 30 inches thick, in the vain hope they would offer protection from the Natives. Within a few months, a high-walled rock enclosure protected a wagon repair shop and a black smith shop, in addition to the station house and corral. Including the station master, seven or eight men worked full time at the station.

The only thing left today is a partial stone wall, buttressed by wood braces. But the sight still evokes images of that rattling coach blasting into the yard in a cloud of dust. No overnight stop or meal service was offered. With just a quick change of horses, the driver took off again, trying, and usually succeeding, in making the entire journey in 25 days. This was almost miraculous, considering before the Butterfield Overland Coach, mail to California was sent by ship around the tip of South America, a journey of four to eight months. Delivering the mail was the primary purpose of the stage, but the occasional passenger braved the trip as well. Such travel was far from comfortable. In fact, one passenger compared the trip to hell.

Today we take communication for granted. We carry cell-phones in our pockets to talk or write instantly to friends, family, and businesses world wide. Packages can be sent across the country in days. But the world of 150 years ago was incredibly different. As young men and women moved westward, a good-bye to a parent or sibling might be forever. People left behind might never learn the fate of those who had gone away.

Over the years, telegraphs replaced the pony express. Then telephones replaced telegraphs. Roads and rails were built and the vast wildernesses crossed. In the modern age of constant connection, I think it’s worth remembering the self-reliance and independence of those who forged ahead, tetherless, without a ‘lifeline’ to ask for help.

Thoughts on University: Salamanca

I have alway loved education and dreamed of going to college from the time I was about ten years old. I have happily pursued that dream in many different places. Years ago, I attended classes at the Sorbonne University in Paris, France. At the time, I learned that the Sorbonne was one of the first established universities in the world. Founded between 1160 and 1250, it is certainly among the oldest in Europe. However, since the university suspended operation during the French revolution and the upheaval following, the Sorbonne is not the longest-running university in Europe.

In fact, the title for ‘oldest university’ is in dispute, partly because there are different interpretations of what constitutes a university. Currently, a university is considered to be an institute of higher learning offering degrees in multiple, diverse programs. The word ‘university’ comes from the Latin phrase, universitas magistrorum et scholarium ” meaning community of masters and scholars’. By that definition we would have to consider the scholars of ancient Greece, China, and the Middle East as constituting ‘universities,’ and predating anything else in Europe, Asia, or Africa.

Perhaps it is the idea of continuous operation that determines which university is oldest. However even with this definition, we still have multiple contenders for the title. Most often, the University of Bologna in Italy, founded in 1088 with a focus in law studies is listed as the first. However, nearly 200 years earlier, the university of Al-Quarawiynn was begun in Morocco. The founder was a woman named Fatima al-Fihri, and the center offered differing degrees in varying subjects. Both of these institutions are still in existence.

Recently I visited Salamanca University, founded in 1134, and receiving a royal charter in 1218. This institution legitimately lays claim to the title ‘oldest University in Spain.’ Among the many famous and infamous students are Christopher Columbus, Hernando Cortez, Miguel de Cervantes, and the first Grand Inquisitor of Spain, Tomás de Torquemada.

However, de Alava’s message to 16th century viewers was probably quite different. What we call a frog is more likely a toad, which was a symbol of female sexuality. The creature is perched on a skull, symbolizing death. The message to the medieval (male) students was clear: Don’t dally with women and give in to carnal lusts or you are doomed.

Regardless of the university’s title or its former students, the buildings housing the University of Salamanca are breathtakingly beautiful. Staircase banisters are made of elaborately carved stone. The library, one of the oldest in Europe, is a scholar’s dream. I visited on a rain-soaked day in late fall. Standing under dripping umbrellas, my companions and I found the legendary stone frog perches on a stone skull near the entryway. The elaborate work of this entry was designed by Juan de Alava and completed in the 16th century. According to the current legend, any students who cannot find the frog are bound to fail in their studies.

In the end, it doesn’t really matter which university is oldest, first, or longest running. The University of Salamanca is certainly on my list of great places for learning.

An ornate staircase within the university

Muir Woods: Ancient Beauty

Most historic places I write about are manmade, created by human efforts. Muir Woods is a different kind of place, a natural wonder, preserved, but not created, by people.

Many of the majestic trees in this old growth redwood forest are over 600 years old, surviving floods, fires, and the logging booms of the 19th century. People have lived among these ancient trees for thousands of years. For centuries, California natives, such as the Coast Miwok, managed the land they called home. European settlers drove the natives out or enslaved them, and cut many of the redwood forests down for forts, houses, stores, and other buildings. The canyon along Redwood Creek escaped such demolition only because the owners had protected it.

Elizabeth and William Kent donated their holdings to the public in 1908. That same year, the area was designated a national monument, and named for John Muir. Muir was renowned for his writings about both the beauty of and the need for old growth forests. He led efforts to preserve Yosemite Valley and Sequoia National Park.

Though few remain, coast redwoods are the tallest living trees on the planet. They can grow to be over 375 feet tall. In Muir Woods, the tallest tree reaches over 250 feet. (That compares to a 23 story skyscraper.) Though not the oldest type of tree, redwoods can live for thousands of years.

A hike among the trees in Muir Woods is humbling and inspiring. A soft layer of needles underfoot deadens the sound of footfalls, and the grounds around the trees are carpeted with ferns and redwood sorrel.

The rich scent of conifers brings back childhood memories of picnicking inside a huge redwood hollowed out by fire. My eyes are constantly drawn upwards, reaching to the heavens. The light filtering through the crowns feels like a blessing.

Though redwoods can survive low intensity fires, extremely hot fires that stem from years of fire suppression, can kill the trees. Climate change is also affecting the trees, as they need moisture from the coastal fogs. We didn’t create this ancient beauty, but I sincerely hope we continue to value and preserve it.

The Balclutha

Sometime in 1965 or 1966, when I was ten or eleven, my father brought home a small sailboat, and I fell in love with sailing. In high school, my interest in history and love of tall ships melded with a field trip to San Francisco’s Maritime Museum and the Balclutha.

At that time, the Balclutha was moored at Pier 41 East. Stepping onto the deck of a ship more than three quarters of a century old fueled my imagination. I closed my eyes and listened to the creak of lines, the groaning deck, and the screech of gulls flying overhead. As the ship rocked gently beneath me, I imagined the crew scrambling up the ratlines, the captain calling out orders. Below decks, the narrow passageways and cramped quarters conjured stories of the life of the sailors. Even the captain’s rooms, though luxurious by comparison, were tiny and dark. In some ways it reminded me of an RV, with every tiny space optimized for storage.

The Balclutha was launched in 1886, from Glasgow, Scotland. Christened She is square-rigged with three masts and twenty-five sails, and is one of the only two such ships left in the United States. She carried cargo of coal, lumber, salmon, and other goods for over 50 years.

The Balclutha made seventeen trips around the horn in thirteen years. For most of the ship’s history, she was manned by a crew of about twenty-six men. Only the captain of such a ship could bring his wife aboard for the trip around the horn and back again. Her last captain under British registration was Captain Durkee. His wife, Alice, accompanied him on at least one voyage, and gave birth to their daughter on March 11, 1899. The ship was in the Indian Ocean, bound for San Francisco, and so they named the little girl, Inda Frances.

That same year, the Balclutha joined the Pacific lumber trade as a Hawaiian ship. She carried lumber from the Pacific Northwest for mines in Australia. She was the last vessel to sail under the flag of the Kingdom of Hawaii. In 1901, her registry was officially transferred to the United States of America. She worked the Pacific Coast, transporting salmon from Alaskan canneries to San Francisco, and men and supplies back to Alaska. She was retired in 1930.

Even in retirement, the Balclutha had work to do. She was purchased in 1933 and sailed south to Catalina Island. There she starred along with Clark Gable in the film, Mutiny on the Bounty.

In 1954, the tired, old ship was purchased by the San Francisco Maritime Museum, and renovated. In 1978, ownership was transferred to the National Park Service and she was listed in the National Register of Historic Places in 1985.

Today, the ship is moored at Hyde Street Pier, welcoming tourists aboard and sparking the imagination of writers like me.

A Scenic Train in Oregon

Before automobiles took over transportation throughout the United States, railroads reigned supreme. Before trucks used interstates, highways, and county roads to transport goods cross-country, there were trains.

This was just as true in Oregon as anywhere else. In fact there were railroads in Oregon in the 1850’s. These mule-powered tramways were often used in the logging industry to move timber.

In 1861, steam-powered trains arrived in Oregon. The first was a five mile stretch of the Oregon Portage Railroad, from Tanner Creek to the Cascade Rapids. The first locomotive was called the Oregon Pony.

Gradually, the southern Pacific Railroad took over operations of most of the rails in Oregon. For a time, Southern Pacific was well known for through service linking California and Washington State. The SP also had many side branches to smaller communities and was very important for the timber industry along the Oregon coast.

Nowadays, scenic trains for tourists run along sections of the Oregon coast. One such is the Rockaway Beach to Garibaldi round trip route. The outbound leg of the trip is about 30 minutes and offers magnificent views of the Pacific Ocean, sandy beaches, and rocky cliffs along the way. At the Garibaldi station there are several vintage trains cars and engines to view, and time to catch a great fish and chips lunch at a nearby food truck before the return trip.

Southern Pacific Railroad Depot, built in 1936. It is one of the last one room depots in the US.

Train travel has lost some of its importance over the years and is no longer the most important way to move goods or people. However, the lure of the steam engine, the clacking of wheels on rails, the conductors’ call of ‘all aboard, still bring a sense of adventure. Whenever I hear a distant train whistle, I want to climb on board and see where the journey will take me.

A Winter of Mud

In elementary school, we all learn about the Lewis and Clark expedition, that epic journey of discovery. Most of us have also heard of Sacagawea, and her vital role in the expedition as translator, guide, and ambassador. Less well-known are the living conditions of the company. Since I’m especially interested in women’s contributions to history I find Sacagawea’s story fascinating, not just because of the important guidance she gave the captains, but also because of her skill as a mother.

Sacagawea and her son, Jean-Baptiste Charbonneau, at Fort Clatsop

Remember, Sacagawea was a Shoshoni girl about 10 years old when she was kidnapped by the Hidatsa. She was taken from her home in Idaho to a village near Mandan, North Dakota. There she was sold, along with another girl from her village, to a Frenchman, Toussaint Charbonneau. Charbonneau married both girls, though I have never heard whether or not the girls agreed to the wedding.

In any case, Sacagawea gave birth to their son, Jean-Baptiste Charbonneau (nicknamed Pompey), on February 11, 1805. Less than two months later, on April 5, 1805, the company departed for the west, with Sacagawea carrying her infant son.

Now I’d be the last to suggest that modern parenting is easy. All decisions regarding the health, safety, and future happiness of the child rest on the parent’s shoulders. But today we have disposable diapers, along with innumerable gadgets, equipment, toys, and carrying devices to make caring for an infant easier. Can you imagine setting off on a journey with your child on your back? There were no air-conditioned cars or motels along the way. Sacagawea travelled by foot, horse or open boat the entire journey, and she kept her baby alive.

In the winter of 1806, when Pompey was still less than one year old, the Lewis and Clark expedition reached the Pacific Ocean and built Fort Clatsop. They started building on December 8, 1805, and moved in on Christmas Eve, though the roof was not yet finished. Although Sacagawea had a vote in the decision of where to put the fort, I’m sure she never imagined the mud.

Fort Clatsop (reconstruction) Lewis and Clark National Monument, Oregon

Days and days of mud.

I visited Fort Clatsop on a beautiful, warm and sunny day. The surrounding cedar forest was cool and shady, with a carpet of soft needles lining the paths. The Lewis and Clark expedition had a vastly different experience. Of their three month stay at this fort, it rained all but twelve days.

On top of the endless rain, the fort was built for military purposes, not comfort. Thirty two men, one woman, a baby, and a dog lived in the two buildings. The angled roofs were high on the outer edges, and sloped down to a central courtyard. That means all that rain collected in the narrow yard between the buildings. Inside was dark, smoky, and full of fleas. Outside was wet.

Small, high windows provide little light.

Here Pompy passed his first birthday. He probably crawled about in the mud and played with the men or the dog. He may have spoken his first words and learned to walk. And through it all, Sacagawea kept him healthy.

We learn from the journals Lewis and Clark kept that they left Fort Clatsop on March 23, 1806, as soon as they could. Everyone was tired of this miserable fort. I imagine Sacagawea was just as anxious as the men to leave. The journey back would be long and arduous, but never boring.

Perhaps having a roof over one’s head is not such a luxury where there’s a sea of mud beneath one’s feet.

Nijo-Jo: The Castle that Sings

Let me explain. The great castles of Europe were massive stone structures, built for defense against large groups of marauders. Many are also beautiful, but the aesthetic is not the primary goal.

On the other hand, while Nijo-jo was also built for defense, beauty, peace, and serenity are equally valued. In this way, it is more like the later, ornate palaces of Europe’s 18th century, built at least in part to show off to other nobles.

Nijo-jo was planned and constructed in the early 17th century, at the beginning of the Edo period, when Japan was ruled by the Tokugawa family–the Tokugawa shogunate- and Kyoto was the Imperial Capital of Japan. The first shogun of the Tokugawa shogunate, Ieyasu Tokugawa, used it as his residence whenever he was in Kyoto.

Though lighter and airier than some of its European counterparts, Nijo-jo has its share of fortifications. The castle complex has an inner and an outer ring of defense, each ring consisting of a stone wall and a moat. Originally, the outer wall had four watchtowers, but only two of these remain. These tall, white buildings with distinctly Japanese curved roofs are landmarks in Kyoto.

Three gates in the outer wall provide access to the Ninomaru area, which includes the Ninomaru palaces and gardens. The five interconnecting buildings of the palace are mostly made of cyprus wood and are decorated with gold leaf. Elegant wall and screen door paintings and ornate carvings were meant to further impress visitors with the shogun’s power and wealth.

There are two gates in the inner wall, leading to the Hon-maru area. When first built, his inner palace was similar to the 1603 Ninomaru palace, but in 1893 some of the buildings from the Katsura Palace in theKyoto Imperial Enclosure were moved here, replacing the older buildings.

Between the inner and outer walls, visitors can stroll through the 400 year old Zen Buddhist gardens. This garden features a small lake, with three islands and several artfully placed stones.

The most unusual defensive aspect of Nijo-jo are its Nightingale Floors. How are squeaky (singing) floors defensive? Well no one can walk on them without making noise, thus alerting the guards within the castle. The floors were designed so that the nails of the slightly curved floor boards would rub on the joint clamps. It’s possible that the resulting chirping was an accident of design, but I prefer the legend. After all, floors that sing a warning add an aura of magic to an already awe-inspiring place.

The Forces of Empire and Nature

Civilizations come and go. Cities rise and fall. Even great empires flourish for a time, and then inevitably, decline. The Roman Empire, which at its height, stretched from Britain to the Middle East, from northern Europe to West Africa, is a prime example of this cycle. But, fortunately for those of us who love digging into the past, the footprints of those who have gone before us do not disappear into oblivion. Cobbled roads, broken stones, lone archways, and bits of decorated tiles remind the people of today of those past glories.

In the first century AD, in the foothills of Mr. Zerhoun in the Middle Atlas Mountains, Roman colonists, bent on expanding their empire, developed an outpost north of what is now Meknes, Morocco. Colonists pushing into new territory rarely find empty land, and Roman colonists settling the fertile plains surrounding the Khoumane and Fertase? Rivers were no exception. The Amazigh tribes had called this land home since Neolithic times, and the Carthaginans had a city in this spot since the third century BCEBut to the Roman colonists the nomadic and semi-nomadic peoples of the area were ‘Berbers” (barbarians) and the land was perfect for their expansion into Northwest Africa.

The city the Romans built is called Volubilis. It served as the capital of the Roman province of Mauritania (Land of the Moors). By the third century AD, some 20,000 people called Volubilis home, and Latin was the primary language heard in the streets.

The huge site is now in ruins, the remarkable ability of Roman engineers and artisans is evident in the city plan. The site is only 30% excavated but it is still possible to see the layout of the streets, the public baths and fountains, and the homes of the plebs and the wealthier merchants and officials. These latter homes were elaborate villas with well-preserved, beautiful mosaic tiles floors. The mosaics depict various mythological scenes that give hints of the room’s purpose and insight into Roman sense and sensibilities. The houses are now named by the mosaics found, for example, the House of Orpheus, Dionysus and the Four Seasons, or the House of the Dog.

Rome granted the residents of Volubilis Roman citizenship and temporary tax-free status, and the city was able to thrive for a couple hundred years. Eventually, however, pressure from the native Amazigh, and internal issues in Rome, caused Rome to withdraw from the city. Even without Rome’s direct oversight, the multicultural population of Volubilis, comprising Jews, Berbers, Syrians, Greeks, Christians, and Romans, continued to follow Roman practices, speak Latin, and trade in lucrative products such as olive oil.

The Roman influence remained strong for several centuries, until the Arab conquest of North Africa in the seventh century. The Arabs destroyed the churches, and moved the capital from Volubilis to Fes. Though it no longer held a position of prime importance, the city continued to be inhabited for several more centuries. Some buildings were neglected and fell into ruin. Some marble and dressed stone was recommissioned into new projects.

The remains of the heating system for the Roman public baths

Then, in 1755, the huge Lisbon earthquake devastated the city. Houses crumbled, arches fell, pillars toppled. The forces of nature took only minutes to topple the magnificent legacy of the great Roman Empire..

Today the site is hot and dusty, deserted save for tourists and birds.Grasses and thorn bushes have invaded. The remaining walls are crumbling. Wind whistles through empty arches. The Romans are gone, as is their empire. The Amazigh no longer live in this ruined city (though they still inhabit the surrounding countryside.) 2000 years after colonization, the war between empire and nature continues. Nature seems bent on taking over, but even after all these years, nature still has not totally erased the memory of the civilization that reigned in these foothills.

The ruins serve to remind the people of today that all things, even Great Empires such as Rome, are ephemeral. We of America should probably keep that in mind.

Bon Voyage: Morocco

Recently, I’ve come back from a trip to Morocco. On my departure and my return, I was blessed with well-wishes from family and friends. “Safe travels,” they said with a heartfelt hug ( or the more grammatically grating, ‘Travel safe’). As I smiled and returned their hugs, it occurred to me to wonder, when did ‘safe travels’ replace ‘bon voyage’ as the wish given a traveler? As if the inherent danger of travel is of more concern (or interest?) than the desire for good times.

I have no clear answer to this, though I suspect the 9/11 attack had a profound effect on our national psyche.

In any case, in spite of the exotic impression people might have of Morocco, the country is remarkably safe. There are, of course, pickpockets, such as a traveler will find in any tourist spot, and there are some disputes over the country’s borders. However, I found the people very helpful and friendly. Morocco is an amazing country, with a fascinating history. The melange of cultures creates a multi-layered society; a predominately Muslim country, where Christians, Jews, Muslims, and people with any other beliefs, live together in peace.

Mosque in Marrakech, Cathédrale St. Pierre in Rabat, Synagogue in Fes

Moroccan culture has developed over the centuries with many different influences. The area has been inhabited at least since Neolithic times. Various indigenous tribes developed a thriving civilization with their own writing and a strong trade relationship with the Phoenicians and later, Carthage. The descendants of these earliest inhabitants call themselves Amazigh (plural Imazighn), which comprise several different groups including the Tuareg. The Romans called them Mauri (which became Moors) or Berbers (which meant barbarians.)

By 300 BCE the kingdom of Mauretania developed. Mauretania was an independent Berber kingdom. The bustling trade possibilities and fertile lands of North Africa enticed Romans to expand into the areas, though they controlled mostly by trade networks rather than military expansion. By 33 BCE, the area was considered first a client of Rome, and later a vassal state. The fertile lands of Morocco helped feed the teeming population of Rome.

Christianity moved into Morocco in the 2nd century CE. Rome’s influence waned with the incursions of Vandals, Goths, and Visigoths, who eventually caused the Fall of Rome. By the 4th century CE most of the Romanized area had converted to Christianity. Many Jews lived in the area also.

Beginning around 700 CE, Arabs swept across Northern Africa, gradually converting most of the indigenous population to Islam. The Arab/Berber dynasties of Morocco developed with Arab and Amazigh leaders. Morocco was never controlled by the Ottoman Empire.

As Europe looked for expansion, the Portuguese, Spanish, and French fought for control of the area. Morocco became a French protectorate in 1912 and regained independence in 1956.

Over the centuries, these merging cultures have formed the fabric of modern Morocco, a delightful kaleidoscope encompassing a land as varied as its people. From the dry desert dunes and date palm oases to the cedar forests and rocky slopes of the high Atlas, from the winding alleys of the old medinas to the smooth, sweeping sand beaches of the north Atlantic, Morocco invites and welcomes visitors to this intriguing land. A place for safe and good travels! Bon voyage indeed!

There is a wide variety of animals, as well as people, in Morocco!

Who gets to be the hero?

500 years ago in 1522, the last (and only remaining) ship of Magellen’s famous circumnavigation of the earth limped into port in Sanlúcar, Spain. Magellan, a Portuguese captain, had begun the journey, which was financed by Spain, three years earlier with five ships and about 270 men.

A replica of the Nao Trinidad at the Tall Ship Festival in Two Harbors, Minnesota, August 2022

Ferdinand Magellan is the most famous participant in this remarkable voyage. After all, he planned the entire trip, led the five ships across the Atlantic Ocean, kept the fleet intact through two attempted mutinies, discovered the strait of Magellan at the southernmost tip of South America, and carried on across the Pacific.

However, neither Magellan nor his flagship, the Nao Trinidad, completed the entire journey. Magellan’s first bad turn of luck was when one of his ships wrecked on the east coast of South America. Things got even worse when one of the would-be mutineers, Juan de Cartagena, deserted with another ship. That left only three ships in the fleet to cross the Pacific Ocean, arriving near Guam in March of 1521. Further troubles met the expedition as they fought with the natives of Guan and the Philippines. Magellan was killed in the battle of Mactan. (Lapu Lapu, the leader of the Philippine forces is considered a national hero in the Philippines for his resistance to Spanish colonization efforts.)

In spite of Magellan’s death, the expedition continued, though since only about 115 of the original 227 remained alive, one more ship was abandoned and burned. That left two ships, the Victoria and the Trinidad. It was decided that the Trinidad, which was in poor shape, would return home the way they had come, turning back east to cross the Pacific, while the Victoria would continue west through the Indian Ocean and around the Cape of Good Hope.

Both ships ran into trouble on their routes. The Trinidad was captured by the Portuguese and its crew held for ransom. (The Portuguese were angry at Spain’s encroachment on what they considered their spice trade.) While in Portuguese hands, the ship was wrecked in a storm.

Nao Trinidad (replica)
Nao is the Portuguese word for the type of ship–called a carrack in English.

The Victoria, captained by Juan Sebastián Elcano, carried some 26 tons of cloves and cinnamon, but not enough food for the journey. Twenty of the crew died of starvation. The ship also ran into trouble from the Portuguese, but managed to escape with their cargo and return to Spain. Only 18 of the original 270 men survived the whole journey.

As I said earlier, Magellan is widely regarded as the leader of the first successful circumnavigation of the globe. However, why he gets this honor is a bit of a mystery to me.

After all, he didn’t make it home. Also, he was not a popular person back in Spain, nor was he held in high esteem in his native Portugal. Juan de Cartegena, the mutineer-deserter, had returned safely to Spain, where he sset about assiduously besmirching Magellan’s name (partly in an effort to keep himself and his mutineering crew out of jail).. Among other things, he accused Magellan of disloyalty to Spain. Since the Spanish Crown already had their doubts about Magellan’s motives since he was Portuguese, Cartagena’s tales were easily believed. In fact, Magellan’s wife and son were put under house arrest.

As far as the Portuguese were concerned, Magellan was nothing more than a traitor because he sailed under Spanish auspices. (To be fair, Portugal had denied him funding, whereas Spain agreed to finance the voyage.)

In any case, with both sides against him, and his death in the Philippines, it is rather surprising that he’s the one we remember.

Elcano seems the more likely candidate for the role of hero. After all, he, along with only eighteen of the original crew, finished the journey, bringing with them a valuable cargo of spices. But Elcano was Basque, not Spanish, and the Spanish Crown feared Basque nationalist sentiment. (Yes, tensions between the Basque and the rest of Spain are at least 500 years old!). In any case, his accomplishment was not highly celebrated at the time, and he has been largely ignored since then. (However that seems to be changing a bit now as history gets ‘updated’ and more inclusive.)

In the end, the real hero of the whole expedition is Antonio Pigafetta. He started with Magellan and finished with Elcano, and kept a journal throughout the voyage. His account is the most complete story of what happened. He may be fairly unknown, but his words have outlived kings, and sailors, and explorers. That’s power.