Places – Page 6 – BRIC-A-BRAC

As empires go, the Inca were not around for very long. They first appeared in the 12th century and expanded to rule a large part of South America in 1438. They were conquered by the Spanish in 1533. But in that century of prominence, they left an indelible mark on the Andes.

Pachacutek – pointing toward Sacsaywamin

In September (the dry season) the roads are parched and dusty. Our bus rattled over gravel and dirt roads, along cliff edges and through fields. It bounced on cobblestone streets, navigated one-lane, two-way roads, and occasionally, sped along a few paved roads. Clearly, traveling in the sacred valley is an adventure, but a visit to the Sacred Valley helps in understanding Inca Civilization.

Legends and Riches

In the Inca world view, Cusco was the center of the world, and all parts of the empire were connected to Cusco. The Urubamba River forms the sacred valley. The Inca saw this river as a reflection on earth of the great river in the sky, the Milky Way. They saw in the Milky Way constellations both from bright stars, as the Greeks did, and also from the dark spaces, unlike any other civilization. The animals living in the Milky Way interacted with each other and parallel those same animals on earth. (learn more about the Inca Astronomy at the Cusco Planetarium)

The condor, messenger of the gods, represented the sky. The puma represented the earth and the snake represented the underworld.

Borrowing some ideas from the many different groups inhabiting Peru before them, the Inca saw connections between all parts of the world. They worshiped Pachamama (world mother), Inti (the sun god), sacred mountains, and many others.

Qorikancha (in Cusco) (elevation 3,400 meters)

Inca stone work is nothing short of incredible. In their most important buildings, the stones fit so tightly together, without mortar, that not even a piece of paper could slip between. Qorikancha is a marvelous example of this exquisite work. Spanish chroniclers reported that Qorikancha was covered in gold and fabulous beyond belief. Just like the Inca before them, (and probably every conquering civilization in the history of the world) the Spanish adopted some Incan ways, and built upon their special places. At Qorikancha the beautiful Inca Temple of the Sun remains, and the beautiful Spanish Santo Domingo church and convent is built on and around it.

Ollantaytambo (Elevation 2792 meters)

Ollantaytambo is both a town with a thriving tourist market and an archeological site. It was an important fortress for the Inca, and one of the places the Spaniards lost a major battle. It was built in the 15th century. Though many have been remodeled and repurposed, some of the oldest continuously inhabited buildings in South America can be found here.

Ollantaytambo means the resting place of Ollantay. See the man in the mountain

Salineras de Maras (Elevation 3380 meters)

Long before the Inca ruled, a natural spring, bubbling up through ancient buried seas, has brought salt to the surface of this part of the Andes. For at least 500 years, local inhabitants have created and mined these pans. Many people believe the salt pans were first created even earlier by the Wari, a civilization pre-dating the Incas. The Spanish conquerors continued to mine salt here. The pans are now owned and mined by individual families in the Maras community.

I tasted the water flowing from the spring into the pans and was surprised by how warm and salty it was.

Farming in the Andes

Fundamentally, the Incans were great farmers. Their highly developed astronomical observations helped them determine when to plant and harvest. There were only six domesticated animals in Peru: the llama, alpaca, vicuna, guanaco, hairless dog, and guinea pig. Along with these, Inca farming focused on corn, quinoa and potatoes.

Moray (elevation 3,500 meters)

Moray is an Inca ruin with few visitors. Many scientists believe the terraced farms were an experiment in growing various crops at different altitudes or different temperatures. Their scientific development of high altitude farming was one reason for their success. There is a 27 degree (Fahrenheit) difference in temperature from top to bottom.

Pisac (Elevations 2715 meters)

The site at Pisac includes a military area, agricultural area and residential area, as well as many tombs. (Unfortunately these were looted long ago.)

The name comes from an Aymara word, Pisaca, meaning partridge. The site is shaped like a partridge, which mirrors the partridge constellation in the Milky Way.

Wiñay Wayna (Elevation 2650 meters)

Because it is located on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, the only way to get to this beautiful ruin is by walking. It is near the Day 3 campsite for the 4 day Inca Trail walk, or the mid-way point for the 1 day Inca Trail Walk. However you get there the journey is daunting and the view spectacular. Rough stone buildings, probably storehouses, and steep, semi-circular terraces overlook the Urubamba River far below.

The name means “Forever Young” and is a reference to the beautiful orchids found in the Cloud Forest surrounding this area. Far fewer visitors find Winay Wayna than Machu Picchu, so a visit lets you bask in near-solitary wonder (as you sit and try to catch your breath after the hike here.)

Parque de la papa (Elevation 4000 meters)

Here, six local communities have come together to preserve native methods of potato culture. This is the highest spot in the Andes we visited, kick-started and supported by G-Adventures and the Planeterra Foundation. Besides learning about varieties of potatoes and quinoa, we had a weaving demonstration and a chance to buy hand-made goods directly from their creators.

The end of the Incas

Though weakened by civil war, and decimated by the Spanish conquerors, remnants of the Incan civilization remain. A visit to the Sacred Valley shows us the importance of the knowledge developed by the Incas. No matter how far away earth and sky may be, (even in the Andes where the mountains pierce the sky) everything is connected.

A mistake that led to Independence

SAM_4498 On our way from Minnesota to Virginia, we stopped for a late lunch at Fort Necessity National Battlefield in the southwest corner of Pennsylvania. The rain of the morning had mostly stopped, but there weren’t many people visiting. The place has a very well designed visitor center and a pleasant walk to the reconstructed fort that commemorates the battle between George Washington’s Virginia Militia and the French Canadians and Indian.

The fort is small, unassuming and apparently insignificant. But the wilderness battle fought there on July 3, 1754 shook the world, changing the course of history. It started what could be called the first world war and ultimately lead to the Revolutionary War and the establishment of the United States of America as an independent nation

It seems incredible that such a peaceful place could have been so important. In 1754, there were no roads leading to this meadow. There were no villages or businesses to protect. There weren’t even very many settlers in the region.

So why build a fort in this wilderness?

SAM_4502 The answer is LAND–untamed, and to European eyes, unclaimed, land, rich for the taking.

The British wanted it. The French wanted it. Not to mention the various groups of Native American, including the Shawnee, the Mingo, the Iroquois, the Monangahela and the Delaware.

All of them claimed it. Rival British colonies even squabbled among themselves over who had the right to settle here and exploit its resources.

In all this vast territory, the question remains, why is Fort Necessity important?

Fort Necessity’s significance is really built on two mistakes, both made by George Washington.

When we think of the first president of the United States of America, we usually see a serious, white haired gentleman of with strong morals and a clear sense of duty. We remember the courageous general who led the Continental Army to victory. We rarely consider George as a somewhat rash young man, upright and eager to earn a good reputation.

George was 22 when he led a the Virginia militia to what is now southwestern Pennsylvania. He was acting on orders from Virginia’s Governor Dinwiddie to secure the territory for Virginia and make the French leave, with force if required.

Washington’s first mistake was leading an ambush against the French. This didn’t seem like a mistake at the time. He thoroughly defeated the troops led by Joseph Coulon de Villiers de Jumonville. In the short skirmish or its aftermath, Jumonville was killed. The French claimed he was an ambassador, delivering to the British that same message Washington had been ordered to give the French: leave this area. Therefore, killing him was in fact an assassination. Washington claimed ambassadors don’t travel with troops, justifying his act of aggression.

After this encounter, Washington expected to be attacked, and so he choose Great Meadow to set up his defenses. This was his second mistake. He had his men build a circular stockade, 53 feet in diameter, with earthworks surrounding it and a small shed in the middle of it. This storehouse was intended to shelter supplies, not men. In fact, the purpose of the storehouse was to protect those supplies from his own men. Washington choose the meadow because they would be able to see the enemy approach. But the meadow was too small, and the trees were too close. The attackers could use the cover of the trees to fire on the fort’s defenders.

Walking across the quiet meadow in July of 2017, it was hard to imagine what took place here 263 years early. In 1754, it rained heavily, turning the trenches Washington had built into stream. The two forces exchanged fire all day, but in the end, Washington surrendered. His men had found the supplies and gotten drunk. Their powder was wet. The French and Indians attackers had a better position and outnumbered the his troops. This was the first and only time George Washington surrendered.

When news of the battle reached Europe, both sides escalated military presence in the new world, eventually declaring war in 1756. The Seven Years War was fought world-wide, involving all the powers in Europe. The conflict raged across five continents, including Europe, North and South America, Africa, India and the Philippines.

One result of this war was increased British control of North America and opened up the Ohio Territory to colonial settlers. The war had been very expensive for the British, and they naturally expected the colonists to help pay. This led to a number of tax initiatives, and we all know the result of ‘taxation without representation.’

What strikes me as particularly ironic about the battle of Fort Necessity is Washington’s role in it. In this battle, Washington fought alongside British troops against the French and their Indian allies. Twenty-one years later, an older, wiser Washington took charge of the Continental Army. In the following years, Washington led that army to victory, fighting alongside French troops against the British. It just goes to show the two sides of the conflict were not so different after all. SAM_4504

A lesson we might still need to learn.

Category: Places

Cusco and the Sacred Valley

Legends and Riches

Farming in the Andes

The end of the Incas

Fort Necessity